Located just a short drive south of Brussels is the town of Beersel, where the Vandervelden family has been brewing lambics since 1882. We had called these people early in the day. They had informed us that the brewery only has tours at set times, but that we would be welcome if we wanted to come a week later and join a group of 30 people. We accepted this, but were a bit disappointed.
Not being able to visit this brewery, we decided to venture elsewhere in search of lambic-type beers. Our first stop was an accidental discovery in the small town of St. Genesius-Rode, located south of Brussels and east of Beersel. There we found beer hunting heaven, Drinks Wets (209 Steenweg op Halle), a Belgian version of Liquor Barn. In this beer store one can find a entire wall full of lambics, some with the "old style" white-washed bottles, some with big names like Cantillion and Frank Boon, and some actually oozing lambic out of the wet cork (Hannsens). Our shopping carts quickly filled with lambics, Belgian specials and Abbey beers and of course, Belgian glassware. Fortunately for us, they accepted VISA! We each departed with a hefty load of some really diverse beers. The day was young and we were already quite pleased with the results.
We ventured on to Beersel, in search of the cafe that Michael Jackson notes in his book on Belgium beers (The Three Fountains). When we arrived we realized the cafe was closed on Tuesdays, the day of our visit. We got a bite to eat next door and inquired about good beers of the area. We were informed that Oud Beersel was the best lambic around and the brewery, being right on the other side of the town, and a must visit.
Off we went, and following the Oud Beersel signs we had little difficulty finding the brewery. The outside features red and white tiles with the words: Kriek/Gueuze. Upon entering, an older man began a discussion in French with Phil, that I was not in tune to. Much back and forth ensued, with the occasional apology offered from Phil. Soon I was informed that the discussion centered on the fact that we had called earlier and were told NO, only to arrive later anyway. Phil successfully explained that we had no idea that Oud Beersel Brewery and the Vandervelden were the same thing. It helped at this point to inquire about purchasing their lambics, and sure enough we were informed that beer was available for sale, as long as we were willing to buy it by the case. No problem. We got six 750 ml bottles each of Kriek and Gueuze.
The beer was stored in the traditional manner, on the side with a swath of white or pink paint to indicate "up". After some discussion, it was decided that labels might help, since we already were transporting a ton of beer around the country. The brewer glued the labels on one by one.
While Phil was busy taking care of this important activity, I ran back to the car for my camera, and started shooting pictures of the place. Eventually we asked enough questions that we were given an unofficial tour. A typical lambic brewery, the mash tun and boil kettle are weathered insulated cylinders, the insulation being held on with duct tape. A vertical system was in use, where a masonry-built painted grain shoot feeds the mash tun. Everything was quite dusty, with wooden planks forming a second tier walkway for the brewer to work on the top of the tanks. I was constantly concerned that I would fall through this very crude arrangement. There were two separator/cooling tanks, if one can call them a tank. They were basically a coolship in the shape of a tall bath tub, with slotted plates on the bottom. This was the traditional cool ship, where the hot and cold breaks settle out and the initial inoculation of the local microbes begins. (One note: this takes place deep in the interior of the brewery; there appears to be little direct exposure to outdoor air.) I recall a comment that the wort sits in this overnight. After exiting the coolship, the wort is transferred into one of two large primary fermentation tanks, constructed of metal. After a primary fermentation period, the beer is racked into Chestnut casks--the brewer swears by them and recoiled with horror at the possibility of using oak. The casks are marked and stored in the lambic way, noting the dates and contents on the face of the cask.
Of note in this brewery is the wall full of hand cooperage tools from the mid nineteenth century. Also of note is the old barrel cleaning device, a frame in which the cask is suspended, allowing it to be rotated with hot water and chains inside to "knock" off the gunk. This is nearly identical to the arrangement at the Cantillon brewery.
The brewer himself (presumably Mr. Vandervelden) is getting on in years, though hardly decrepit. He informed us that his young nephew was now in the business, which is likely to stay open for a good while. They're not getting rich, but the brewery makes enough money to stay open and support their families. Most sales are to serious beer connoisseurs--the popular market provides little if any support.
The Kriek had definite cherry notes and flavor, but not in the dominant way that a Frank Boon or Hannsens does. It is more of a subdued and blended flavor. It's color is almost fluorescent pink. The gueuze is a good example of a traditional lambic, but nowhere near as tart and acidic as a Cantillion, nor as sweet as the Belle Vue-like beers.
In comparison with other lambic products, the Oud Beersel beers are less rich than some others (if this is a word that can be used to describe beers as attenuated as these!). The beers are certainly less horsey than the Girardin products, less fruity than Hanssens, less extreme than Cantillon but also lacking in some of Cantillon's satisfying lactic character. Obviously, though, none of these are what the average lager drinkers are going to warm up to, and if you're into lambic beers the differences are ones that you'd enjoy exploring.
Oud Beersel products do not appear to be widely distributed, but can be purchased at the brewery, and also in some stores in Beersel (of which there are not many). We saw them for sale in the delicatessen across from the church, next door to the 3 Fountains.
Last Updated: 16 August, 1995
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